Earlier this month, I was fortunate enough to have business in New Jersey. This provided all the incentive necessary for me to take a day off of work to visit Gettysburg. Less than two hours from Philadelphia, Gettysburg is easy to visit. It amazes me when I talk to my friends, who live within several hours of Gettysburg, that they have never visited this national treasure. Many of these friends have younger children that would really enjoy visiting the battlefield.
I was also fortunate to meet with author, and friend, Jim Hessler for dinner and few adult beverages. If you have not picked up Jim’s new book, “Sickles at Gettysburg” (published by Savas Beatie, LLC in June), I would recommend that you do so. It has really improved my knowledge of the second day’s fight and I have a new found appreciation for how tenuous the situation was in the III Corps’ sector. Check out my review of “Sickles at Gettysburg” and interview with James Hessler by clicking HERE.
While with Jim, I met some new Gettysburg friends. John Hoptak, Tim Smith, Eric Lindblade, Jim Glessner and Erik Dorr. John Hoptak is a National Park Service Ranger at Antietam and has recently published “Our Boys Did Nobly: Schuylkill County, Pennsylvania, Soldiers at the Battles of South Mountain and Antietam.” This is a wonderful book and I plan on reviewing it soon. Tim Smith is not only an author, but the Gettysburg Historian Extraordinaire and knows just about everything about the Battle of Gettysburg – and he proved it to me in a very short time! Eric Lindblade and Jim Glessner recently formed a new publishing house, Ten Roads Publishing. I definitely look forward to working with them in the future. Lastly, Erik Dorr is the curator of The Gettysburg Museum of History. This museum is a “must see” for anyone with an interest in Gettysburg – or American Military History. Hopefully my next visit to Gettysburg will provide me enough time to visit Erik’s museum.
This was my third trip to Gettysburg during 2009. It has been interesting to watch the transformation of some areas where the National Park Service is clear cutting ground to reestablish the sight lines of the summer of 1863. This is especially noticeable southwest of the Devil’s Den, over the ground that CSA Brigadier General Henry Benning’s Georgian’s approached Houck’s Ridge and Devil’s Den. The National Park Service has been quite busy in the area and the results are very evident.
Click HERE to read an official report from Gettysburg National Military Park on the rehabilitation effort and the status of the project.
CSA Brigadier General Henry Benning’s Approach – May 2007
Here is a photo that I took, from Little Round Top, in May 2007. If you look over the Devil’s Den area, you can see how wooded the area of Benning’s attack was. In 1863 this area was primarily rocky fields with small woodlots scattered about. By 2007, the woodlots had grown together giving the area a much different look than Benning’s Georgians would have seen as they pushed towards Houck’s Ridge, and the Devil’s Den.
This is a much closer view, from May 2007, of the fields that Benning’s Georgians pushed through to reach Houck’s Ridge and the Devil’s Den. While this is a rocky field, the woods in the distance were not there in 1863. From this angle on Houck’s Ridge, above the Devil’s Den, you would have been able to see the Slyder farm in the distance.
CSA Brigadier General Henry Benning’s Approach – April 2008
This view is nearly identical to the picture taken in May 2007, from Little Round Top. In May 2007 (see the first photo above), the area southwest of Houck’s Ridge was nearly a continuous woodlot, running from the east to the west (L-R). In this photo, the highlighted area is clearly much more open, with views unimpeded to South Confederate Avenue.
CSA Brigadier General Henry Benning’s Approach – October 2009
This view is from October 2009, from the point of approach of CSA Brigadier General Henry Benning’s Georgia Brigade. Taken at the Slyder Farm, you can clearly see Houck’s Ridge on the left, and the south slope of Little Round Top, via the Slaughter Pen, on the right. The large tree behind the arrowhead, is the “witness tree” on Houck’s Ridge, above the Devil’s Den. This sight line would have been much as Benning’s Georgians would have seen as they approached US Major General David B. Birney’s III Corps Division, on the afternoon of July 2, 1863.
A Study In Contrasts – Gettysburg Then and Now
After spending some time researching my pictures of CSA Brigadier General Henry Benning’s approach to the Devil’s Den, I decided to look at other areas of the battlefield that have changed significantly over the previous 14 decades. I determined the best way to do this would be to compare pictures of fixed objects to old photos of the same area. Fixed objects would be no problem as I have hundreds of pictures of regimental, cavalry, artillery and brigade monuments – many of which go back several years. The dilemma was to find historical pictures of the monuments. After searching the internet, I came across a great site, Stephen Recker’s Virtual Gettysburg. This site is a wonderful Gettysburg site and one that I will continue to reference for articles I write about Gettysburg. Besides Virtual Gettysburg, Recker also has a similar site on Antietam, Stephen Recker’s Virtual Anietam. Virtual Gettysburg offered access to many historical pictures of the monuments at Gettysburg. All of the pictures in the following photo essay come from Virtual Gettysburg. I am deeply indebted to Stephen for allowing me to use them. It should be noted that none of the monuments were erected during the war years. The first monuments began appearing in the years after the war, but most were placed in the 1880’s and some as late as the latter part of the 20th Century. I do not know the dates of the “THEN” monument pictures so this is not a scientific study – just something fun and interesting to look at. So, let’s begin to explore some areas of Gettyburg battlefield that have changed significantly over the years.
143d Pennsylvania Infantry Regiment Monument
The 143d Pennsylvania Infantry was heavily engaged in the first day’s fighting at Gettysburg, July 1, 1863. This monument is located facing Chambersburg Pike, from the south, near South Reynolds Avenue on McPherson Ridge. The most noticable difference between “THEN and “NOW” is the cedar tree growing behind the monument. More significant is the expansion of the Reynolds Woods in the distance.
About the 143d Pennsylvania Infantry
* US Major General John F. Reynolds’ I Corps
* US Major General Abner Doubleday’s Third Division
* US Colonel Roy Stone’s Second Brigade
* Commanded by Colonel Edmund L. Dana
* Strength: 465 Casualties: 253(i)
Today, the 143d Pennsylvania Infantry regiment monument looks unchanged from the earlier picture. The most noticeable change, as mentioned above, is the cedar tree growing southwest of the monument – providing it shade 365 days per year. The most significant change, however, is the density and size of Reynolds’ Woods, in the distance.
The 76th New York Infantry Regiment Monument
Like the 143d Pennsylvania, the 76th New York was part of John Reynolds’ I Corps and was heavily engaged during the first day’s fight at Gettysburg. Fighting north of the railroad cut, it would engage CSA Brigadier General Joseph R. Davis’ 3d Corps Brigade. This picture, likely from the late 19th century, clearly shows some trees in the background, south of present day Wadsworth Avenue.
About the 76th Pennsylvania Infantry
* US Major General John F. Reynold’s I Corps
* US Brigadier General James Wadsworth’s First Division
* US Brigadier General Lysander Cutler’s Second Brigade
* Commanded by Major Andrew J. Grover (killed)
* Strength: 375 Casualties: 234
Standing on McPherson Ridge, north of the railroad cut, the 76th New York Infantry monument looks much the same as it did after it was erected. The most significant difference is the expansion, and thickening of the woodlot, in the distance, south of Wadsworth Avenue.
The 104th New York Infantry Regiment Monument
The 104th New York Infantry regiment would be sent to the northern spur of Oak Ridge, to support US Brigadier General Henry Baxter’s Second Division, I Corps brigade. Baxter was heavily engaged with CSA Brigadier General Alfred Iverson’s 2d Corps brigade when the 104th New York arrived. This period specific photo, probably from the late 19th century, clearly shows a landscape clear of trees, all the way to Barlow’s Knoll.
About the 104th New York Infantry
* US Major General John F. Reynolds’ I Corps
* US Brigadier General John C. Robinson’s Second Division
* US Brigadier General Gabriel R. Paul’s First Brigade
* Commanded by Colonel Gilbert G. Prey
* Strength: 286 Casualties: 194
Today, the 104th New York Infantry monument sits on a shaded knoll below Brigadier General John Cleveland Robinson’s monument. This picture is taken from a slightly different angle, but you can clearly see trees in the distance, towards Barlow’s Knoll.
The 1st U.S. Sharpshooter’s Monument
On the afternoon of July 2, 1863, US Major General David B. Birney sent Colonel Henry Berdan’s 1st U.S. Sharpshooters, and the 3d Maine Infantry, to scout near the center of the Confederate line, close to the Pitzer Woods. When they reached Seminary Ridge, they engaged CSA Brigadier General Cadmus Wilcox’s Alabama brigade. The “THEN” picture, to the left, clearly shows the 1st U.S. Sharpshooter’s monument on a hill, as written in Berdan’s after action report. The view is to the northeast and there are few trees in the picture.
About the 1st U.S. Sharpshooters Regiment
* US Major General Daniel E. Sickles’ III Corps
* US Major General David B. Birney’s First Division
* US Brigadier General J. Hobart Ward’s Second Brigade
* Commanded by Colonel Hiram Berdan
* Strength: 313 Casualties: 49
Today, Colonel Hiram Berdan’s 1st U.S. Sharpshooters’ monument sits on a shaded hill on Berdan Avenue, just west of West Confederate Avenue. While this view is towards the south, the entire area around the monument is surrounded by tall trees, much like those in this picture. This area of West Confederate Avenue has changed significantly over the years.
The 5th New York Cavalry Monument
The 5th New York Cavalry was part of US Brigadier General Elon J. Farnsworth’s Cavalry Brigade. Farnsworth was ordered to attack CSA Lt. General James Longstreet’s right flank on the afternoon of July 3. The attack would be initiated from Bushman Hill, where the 5th New York Cavalry monument is located. The changes in the landscape here are quite visible. This picture, likely from the late 19th century, shows scattered trees on this hill. They have since grown up significantly.
About the 5th New York Cavalry
* US Major General Alfred Pleasanton’s Cavalry Corps
* US Brigadier General Judson Kilpatrick’s Third Division
* US Brigadier General Elon J. Farnsworth’s First Brigade
* Commanded by Major John Hammond
* Strength: 420 Casualties: 6
Today, the 5th New York Cavalry monument, on Bushman Hill, has darkened. Additionally, the trees surrounding the monument have grown significantly. Standing at the monument you cannot see the fields around the Slyder Farm. At Gettysburg, the trees were thin enough that Longstreet’s soldiers could be seen. This is one of the most dramatic areas of change at Gettysburg.
The 52d New York Infantry Regiment Monument
The 52d New York Infantry was part of the reinforcements sent to the III Corps by II Corps commander, US Major General Winfield S. Hancock. Part of Samuel Zook’s brigade, the 52d would fight near the present day Loop. This is another dramatic change at Gettysburg. The woods here have thickened considerably. The older photo shows significantly less trees.
About the 52d New York Infantry
* US Major General Winfield S. Hancock’s II Corps
* US Brigadier General John Caldwell’s First Division
* US Brigadier General Samuel K. Zook’s Third Brigade
* Commanded by Lt. Colonel Charles G. Freudenberg
* Strength: 134 Casualties: 38
Today, things have changed significantly in the area of the Loop, on Sickles Avenue. The woodlot has filled in dramatically over the past several generations impeding the sight line towards the Wheatfield.
The 118th Pennsylvania Infantry Regiment Monument
The 118th Pennsylvania was part of the reinforcements sent by US Major General George Sykes. Part of the V Corps, it would also fight in the area of the Loop – west of the Wheatfield. Like the area around the 52d New York, the differences between this historic photo, and the picture I recently took are stunning. The entire area has been filled in with woods.
About the 118th Pennsylvania Infantry
* US Major General George Sykes’ V Corps
* US Brigadier General James Barnes’ First Division
* US Colonel William Tilton’s First Brigade
* Commanded by Lt. Colonel James Gwyn
* Strength: 235 Casualties: 25
Today, the 118th Pennsylvania Infantry monument has shade most of the day. In the intervening years since the “THEN” photo was taken, the trees have slowly encroached on the monument. The Loop is a beautiful area of the battlefield, but an area that has changed drastically since the Civil War.
The 140th Pennsylvania Infantry Regiment Monument
The 140th Pennsylvania Infantry was another supporting regiment from US Major General Winfield S. Hancock’s II Corps. Ordered towards the Wheatfield area, with the rest of the II Corps’ First Division, they would be ordered to the area between the Wheatfield, and the Peach Orchard, by General Sickles. In this historic picture, very few trees can be seen, and there is a clear view north towards Wheatfield Road.
About the 140th Pennsylvania Infantry
* US Major General Winfield S. Hancock’s II Corps
* US Brigadier General John C. Caldwell’s First Division
* US Brigadier General Samuel K. Zook’s Third Brigade
* Commanded by Colonel Richard P. Roberts
* Strength: 515 Casualties 241
Today, the view towards the north, is dramatically different. The most noticeable difference is the overhanging trees. More significant, however, is the dense woodlot visible in the distance near the base of the monument. These pictures were taken from the same angle, but the distant woodlot is not present in the historic photograph.
The 10th Pennsylvania Reserves (39th PN) Infantry Monument
The 10th Pennsylvania Reserves Infantry (39th Pennsylvania in Federal Service) was part of US Major General George Sykes’ V Corps. It would help defend the Federal line on Little Round Top on July 2, 1863. This historic picture clearly shows the monument in a fairly open clearing in the woods.
About the 10th Pennsylvania Reserves Infantry
* US Major General George Sykes’ V Corps
* US Brigadier General Samuel W. Crawford’s Third Division
* US Colonel Joseph Fisher’s Third Brigade
* Commanded by Colonel Adoniram J. Warner
* Strength: 401 Casualties 5
Today, the 10th Pennsylvania Reserves monument is in a somewhat constricted clearing in a section of deep woods just east of South Confederate Avenue, south of Crawford Road. It is a very detailed monument that can be easy to miss as it sits between the two Round Tops and is not well marked. The woods have closed in on this monument, as can clearly be seen when comparing the “THEN” photo to the “NOW” photo.
The 137th New York Infantry Regiment Monument
The 137 New York Infantry was part of US Major General Henry W. Slocum’s defensive line on Culp’s Hill. Part of US Brigadier General George S. Greene’s XII Corps brigade, the 137th saw action on July 2 and 3, 1863. The monument is located on North Slocum Avenue, with a view towards the north. The contrasts between the historical picture and my picture, from May 2007, are evident. Culp’s Hill has become significantly more wooded.
About the 137th New York Infantry
* US Major General Henry W. Slocum’s XII Corps
* US Brigadier General John W. Geary’s Second Division
* US Brigadier General George S. Greene’s Third Brigade
*Commanded by Colonel David Ireland
* Strength: 423 Casualties: 137
Today, the changes of Culp’s Hill are dramatic. The lines of approach for CSA Lieutenant General Richard S. Ewell’s 2d Corps are covered with woods. In fact, you cannot see the ground north of Culp’s Hill from the 137th New York Infantry monument.
Personal Observations and Commentary:
While there is no doubt, that the National Park Service, and the Gettysburg National Battlefield Park, have done a fine job restoring sight lines to certain areas of the battlefield, there is much work left to do. Serious Civil War buffs and Gettysburg scholars have little trouble visualizing troop movements during a visit to the park. However, casual enthusiasts, students and first time visitors will have difficulty visualizing the same things. Gettysburg was a very complex battle and without the aid of the original sight lines, a visit to the park may be interesting, but may not be readily comprehended. We need to continue to encourage the National Park Service to continue their efforts to restore the original landscape so our current generation, and future generations, will leave the park with a more complete understanding of what happened here nearly 150 years ago.
If you haven’t done so already, check out my Gettysburg Collection on Flickr. I have organized and cataloged my most recent trips to Gettysburg, placing them on Flickr to make them easier to view and easier for search engines to find. Let me know what you think!
(i) Trudeau, Noah Andre, Gettysburg: A Testing of Courage, published by Harper Collins in 2002, The Opposing Armies section starting on page 565. (for all troop strengths and casualties)
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